If that is ok, I would like to post the progress of my Z3 coupe here. First post and I have a stabilizer question The normal Z3 has on the front stabilizers the small stabilizer link that attaches to the front swingarms. Here you can see part number 16. The Z3 M has a longer stabilizer link that attaches to the shock absorber. Here you can see part number 17. I can only think that one advantage is that the longer stabilizer link has 2 uniballs while the short one has a uniball and a bushing. Do you think there is any other advantage ? I have the suspension of a Z3 M and I could easily do this "upgrade". Also, have a look at the diameter of the stabilizer link. My Z3 2.8 has 26mm while the Z3 M has 23mm. That's a bit odd. Let me know what you think guys.
Hi Alex, My understanding with front engined rear drive cars is that longer front ARB Drop links reduce body roll better than shorter drop links. Hence I think this is why you have a larger diam front ARB on the 2.8 in that it has the E36 Drop Link to front wishbone arrangement that are not connected higher up on the strut. At the rear its the opposite with shorter drop links being better. I would keep the 2.8 front ARB and then look to fit adjustable front drop links but fitted higher up on the strut. Then you will more than likely find that you require a little more rear bar, which you can do by drilling a couple of holes in the rear ARB end rabs, to in effect shorten the rear ARB, and again fit adjustable drop links so you can take off any ARB pre load. I would run the front with a little pre-load so as to assist the suspension on roll in and out. You can eaily make adjustable drop links by using the standard BMW ones, cut them to the desired lengths, thread the two ends with M10 tap, and then fit an M10 Stud connector with a couple of half nuts to act as lock nuts. You could use BMW E36 M3 ones Or e39 etc, just need them longer to cut down. Hope that helps. Reagrds, The Gorilla.
Many thanks for your help Danny. I have a new set of drop links for the CSL so I will try to use the 'old' ones from the CSL. I will keep you posted.
Hi Alex, Do you have ''tabs'' on your Strut Casings up high for bolting the drop links to ? If not you can weld some on. The E46 drop links sounds like a plan, just so long as the bearings in them are Ok. Another way you can go with the E46 ones, is to find the length required, cut the bottom 'joint' off, thread cut end, and then use either a M10 female rod end, or M10 Stud Connector and male rod end. But you have several options. Regards, The Gorilla.
Personally I dont like the idea of cutting an M10 thread on a 9.2mm solid tube. Depending on your application, I can assemble a set like this (using only the very best kevlar lined rod ends, titanium bolts and nuts, and extremely high misalignment as needed for front BMW strut attachment for only £100 (I don't make anything on these, so I could only do it when I have time). Andrew
Hi Danny, Yes I have tabs because the suspension I have is from the Z3 M coupe and the Z3 M has this arrangement of drop links. I will replace them this weekend so I will see their condition. Thanks for the offer Andrew. It might be a silly question, but how do these nice drop links cope with salt ? I drive the car in the snow every winter and I guess they would have a bit of a problem (?).
They are of the highest quality, however I don't see the rod ends lasting as long as OE drop links in salty conditions. The titanium parts will be no problem of course. These are designed for ultimate performance and longevity is a secondary consideration. I forgot to mention, the rod ends are oversized for maximum load, and the thread is very fine for the smallest of adjustments. Another feature is, you wont need to undo the rod ends as they are male one end and female on the other. I can supply rubber boots for an additional cost, but these will need to be serviced regularly and I dont know how well they would hold up to salty road conditions if not regularly cleaned out and packed with grease. Andrew
Hi, Quote - ''Personally I dont like the idea of cutting an M10 thread on a 9.2mm solid tube.'' Simple, use M8 instead. Regards, The Gorilla.
If only it was that simple. Stock drop links fail very often, reducing the stem down to 8mm is not as solution as you would struggle to find a rod end strong enough in that size and then you have the added issue of a 10mm hole in the ARB/Strut Bracket when the ball joint will be 8mm. I also dont think a 8mm (outer) thread will be strong enough at the high angles a strut mounted drop link experiences on lock and heavy off line loads. Ive been through all this, anything other than custom high quality is a compromise in my opinion. Andrew
Hi, Quote-If only it was that simple. Stock drop links fail very often, reducing the stem down to 8mm is not as solution as you would struggle to find a rod end strong enough in that size and then you have the added issue of a 10mm hole in the ARB/Strut Bracket when the ball joint will be 8mm. I also dont think a 8mm (outer) thread will be strong enough at the high angles a strut mounted drop link experiences on lock and heavy off line loads. If your breaking Drop links, then your suspension is not set up correctly, period. The reason that most stock drop links break is due to ARB pre load and the fact that the pre-load is unable to be released due to a fixed drop link. 8mm for drop links is more than enough on a correctly set up suspension. Regards, The Gorilla.
Ive never broken a drop link on my car, stock or otherwise Going by that analogy, all Stock E30 factory suspension is thus setup incorrectly. Andrew
Hi, Quote- ''Going by that analogy, all Stock E30 factory suspension is thus setup incorrectly. Unless its running as it left the factory, which many are not due to springs, shocks, damper changes, different size wheel and tyre combinations, and other factors which alter the original ride height. Regards, The Gorilla.
I would have thought that a bent/damaged chassis/suspension components would add more to preload than any of the above? Andrew
Hi, Quote- '[ I would have thought that a bent/damaged chassis/suspension components would add more to preload than any of the above? The Driver getting into an empty car will alter the Pre-Load on the ARB's. No Car sits perfectly level on its suspension no matter how well its set up or how good its Springs/ Dampers are, no more than anybody can set up a Cars suspension with the Driver out, to be good when they step in. The Pre-load effects the cross dynamics of a Car's suspension from NS to OS which is why I always chuckle when people tell me that they have had there car Corner weighted and it handles like its on rails, but they do not have adjustable drop links. Even Adrian Newey would be perplexed. Regards, The Gorilla.
02-07-2012 An update I installed a front strut brace And installed the 2nd CSL battery on the Z3. 19 kg the 70Ah 16 kg the 50Ah So minus 3kg
29-07-2012 Started changing the brakes with Brembo discs + pads. I bought a caliper carrier from the E46 and now the discs are 300x22 instead of the original 276x22. It was a good opportunity to take out the rust and repaint my calipers. Of course, I put new brake fluid in the brake system. And a pic with the wheel. Here are the old brake pads, EBC Redstuff. I cannot say I was happy with them.
21-08-2012 And here is my new roof rack. It's very practical when wanting to transport the trackday tyreset.
Hi Alex, Car looks good on the M5 Rims, sort of suits that Iconic period in BMW history. Seems almost a shame to Rag it around the Track, looks very clean and sharp, and with your recent mods, I would imagine its great fun as a daily etc. You have more than likely seen this, when you dropping one of these in !!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=1-xAY63i8Ww Details are sketchy but found this- www.denislavshishev.com/car.html Regards, The Gorilla.
Hi Danny, Yes, it is a lot of fun to drive it. I love the little car. I use it everyday and also in the winter I drive with it to the ski resorts. It's great fun to drift it in the snow, although I desperately need your diff, as the torsen it currently has is not working in the snow. I have seen this monster with the V10 engine. I think it would be scary to drive My plan for it is to make a DIY kompressor using an Eaton M62 or M65 kompressor. The target is ~250PS. With 0.35bar of boost it should be feasible.
A list of the mods the car currently has - Brembo 300mm front discs + Brembo Sport/Track pads - Bilstein PSS suspension (from a Z3 M) - Powerflex Antiroll bar bushes - Z3 M front wishbone bushes - Front strut brace - Camber bolts (front) - K&N airfilter - Intake manifold from M54B25 - Short shift (from Z3 M) and AC Schnitzer gearshift knob - Z3 M rear view mirror - M3 CSL battery - I also have a set of BMW style 18 17" wheels with R888 for the track which I run with 12mm(front) and 20mm(back) Eibach spacers - And I have a set of BMW style 32 16" wheels with winter tyres I also binned a lot of unecessary weight and the current weight is 1230kg (full tank). This is the to-do list - Kompressor kit - BMW Performance camshafts - Front aluminium wishbones from M3 E30 - Powerflex Rear subframe bushes - Differential from M3 E30 - Interior in Alcantara - New front bumper grill - Z3 M mirrors I am doing all the work on my own And here are a few pics.
